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Billy and Mike (photo thanks to Karen; http://twowheeledwanderers.ca/) |
Both Simon & Olivia and Mike & Karen were heading south
in the same direction as me so we had decided to leave Cusco together. On 30th
Dec the five of us left the hostel to quite the fanfare with our fellow
travellers giving us a great send off. We left slightly later than initially
planned thanks to one of us taking slightly longer to pack up than planned… but
who could that have been?!
The first 25 km out of Cusco seemed to be all downhill so it
was fun to be cycling as part of a bike posy as we zipped out of town. That
night we stayed in the front room of a family who kindly offered to put all 5
of us up. I wasn’t used to asking a stranger to put 5 cyclists up. It didn’t
turn out to be the best nights sleep as once the lights went out out came the
mice!
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... and they all rolled over when the mice came out..! |
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Posse on their way into town |
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Picnic time on a rare find of a picnic table - well spotted Mike Dog |
The following day involved more climbing and we stopped in a
tiny place called Aguascalientes which is famous for it’s hot springs. It was
New Year’s Eve so we spent the early evening in the hot springs and then had a
drink or two in our room. We were all exhausted from our days cycling and lying
in the warm baths for a few hours which meant we were all asleep by 10 pm. A
relaxing and refreshing way to bring in the New Year!
The following day a few of our number seemed to have picked
up head colds probably due to sitting in the roasting hot water in the cold
air. By the afternoon we had made our way up onto the Altiplano. I was
thrilled. It meant that the massive mountains of Peru were finally behind me
and it was also great to take in some different scenery. We all had to wrap up
when we got to the pass at 4,300 metres.
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Poor Olivia was really feeling the cold at the top of the pass. Doing a good impression of 40 Coats. |
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Chilly at the top of the pass
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Simon and Olivia love getting to the top of the pass |
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Camping out the back of the firestation |
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That night I introduced Simon and Olivia to their first
night staying in a firestation!
We bid farewell to Mike & Karen the following afternoon
as they were headed around the opposite side of Lake Titicaca in the coming
days where as the rest of us were heading the main route as we wanted to check
out Copacabana and Isla del Sol once we made it into Bolivia. We knew we would
probably seeing Mike and Karen again once we all made it to La Paz.
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There were some spectacular sunsets on the Altiplano |

That night Simon, Olivia and I wild camped out on what are
known as the pampas which are kind of open fields up on the altiplano. I hadn’t
taken me long to figure out that both couples seemed to put a bit more effort
and a bit more imagination into their camp cooking. Luckily I haven’t grown
bored of the pasta, pasta sauce and tuna that I’ve been cooking up most
evenings for the best part of a year and a half. That said, it was a pleasure
to share a delicious stew (VEGTABLES and CHICKEN!!) that evening with Simon and
Olivia. I think it was my first time to be invited over for dinner by fellow
tenters so thankfully dress was casual. The next morning as we were slowly
packing up a 14 year old boy came up and randomly gave us all hats! We know he
was fourteen because the poor fella showed us his ID when he must have sensed that
we didn’t believe him when he told us his age, he looked a bit older! Olivia
returned the favor by gifting him her nice cashmere sweater that she had been
planning on getting rid of. I gave him a biscuit.
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Muchas gracias amigo! |
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What's up? |

We were grabbed for a photo by some of these guys and their friends
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Striking sculpture sticking out of the side of the cliff |
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My used looking carrier bag |
Later in the day some clown told us that it was all downhill
to our destination of Puno. Of course it turned out to be mostly uphill with a
headwind for the afternoon with a small stretch of downhill at the very end. I
think Simon was considering turning back to have a few words with the friendly
gent who told us it was downhill all the way! It was fantastic however when we
made our way to the top of the final ridge to lay eyes on the spectacular Lago
Titicaca for the first time.
We then had a day off the bike in the lakeside city of Puno
in order to go out and visit the famous floating islands of Uros. Despite being
one of the biggest tourist traps I’ve ever come across it was still very
interesting to visit these indigenous communities who have been living for
centuries on these man made reed islands.
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On our way out to Uros floating islands just off Puno on Lago Titicaca |
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Uros - floating islands |
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One of the boats around the Uros |
The next day back on the bikes was
our last full day in Peru but unfortunately one we’d remember for the wrong
reasons due to insane drivers with not one but two extremely close shaves, one
by a car and one by a truck.
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Ou la la! This couple from the South of France knew the three French cyclists (http://english.solidream.net/) I met on my very first day up in Prudhoe Bay.. un petit monde! |
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The sheet covering my bike managed to collect a lot of water after the night time down pour, pity the sheet is so dirty. |
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As we got closer to the Bolivia border the landscape got rockier, it was like Connemara in the West of Ireland |
On 6th January 2014 Simon, Olivia and I crossed
into Bolivia. Not quite in convoy as I had unwittingly overstayed my 90 day
allowance in Peru so had to peddle back to the previous town to make a three
USD payment and return with receipt. Then the guy goes on to tell me that he
needs 3 photocopies of this passport page and 4 photocopies of that passport
page. Unfortunately I had made sure to spend every last Sol of the Peruvian
currency I had left so had to pay in dollars for a few photocopies. As can
often be the way at these border crossings the guys wasn’t the easiest to deal
with so I was quite happy to be finally cycling over the border and into
Bolivia and onto a new challenge. I was using the Peru Bolivia border as the
three quarter mark of my journey. Although I now only have three countries left
to cycle they are three big countries with plenty of challenges to go! Peru –
Tick – Phew!
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Mmmm cold oats |
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